Now we're moving: strip 2

OK, it's time to start strip 2. This is your first proper strip where you make the full parallelogram shape rather than the flat sided ones in strip 1. I'll describe the first three so you know what to do and then you can take it from there.

For a full parallelogram follow the directions here, and anywhere that you have shaping just follow your chart. If you have a flat side on the left, skip the increases, and if the flat side is on the right, skip the decreases. In some sections you will need to combine what you are doing. For example in section 4 of strip 2, you will work the first inch of the section as a normal parallelogram with a diagonal edge and then switch to a flat sided one in the middle by stopping your increases after the first inch. If you have a flat top like in section 7 of strip 2 (ok, really section 6 for me) you will need to stop when you have that many stitches left, in my case 1 inch worth of stitches, and bind off. Just follow your chart and you'll be fine.

Strip 2 section 1:

Increase section:
Cast on 1 stitch.
Row 1 (WS): kfb
Row 2 (RS): k1, kfb
Row 3 (WS): knit across
Row 4 (RS): slip first stitch purlwise (sl1 purlwise), knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, knit last stitch through back loop (k 1 tbl)

Continue with rows 3 and 4 until you have 10 stitches. This should be about 10 ridges (although I think I got 8 or 9, should all be ok with some fudging later).

Flat section:
Row 1 (WS): sl1 purlwise, knit to last stitch, k 1 tbl
Row 2 (RS): sl1 purlwise, knit to last stitch, k 1 tbl

Continue rows 1 and 2 until your section is 7" long from the tip of the corner (33 ridges).

Decrease section:
Row 1 (WS): sl1 purlwise, knit to last stitch, k 1 tbl
Row 2 (RS): sl1 purlwise, k2tog, knit to last stitch, k 1 tbl

Continue rows 1 and 2 until you run out of stitches (or k3tog, like before). Cut yarn and fasten off.


Strip 2, section 2:

Pick up 33 stitches, one in each ridge, along the top of the previous section.
Row 1 (WS): knit across
Row 2 (RS): sl 1 purlwise, kfb, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k 1 tbl
Row 3 (WS): sl 1 purlwise, knit to last stitch, k 1 tbl

Continue rows 2 and 3 until the section is two inches tall, 18 rows or 9 ridges. Leave stitches live on the needle to join the next section, cut yarn.

Strip 2, section 3:

Increase section:
Cast on 1 stitch.
Row 1 (WS): kfb
Row 2 (RS): k1, kfb
Row 3 (WS): knit across
Row 4 (RS): slip first stitch purlwise (sl1 purlwise), knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, knit last stitch through back loop (k 1 tbl)

Continue with rows 3 and 4 until you have 10 stitches. This should be about 10 ridges (although I think I got 8 or 9, should all be ok with some fudging later).

Flat section:
Row 1 (WS): knit to last stitch, k 1 tbl
Row 2 (RS): sl1 purlwise, knit to last stitch, k2tog with first stitch from previous section, turn

Continue rows 1 and 2 until your section is 7" long from the tip of the corner (33 ridges) and you have 10 stitches left from your previous section.

Decrease section:
Row 1 (WS): knit to last stitch, k 1 tbl
Row 2 (RS): sl1 purlwise, k2tog, knit to last stitch, k2tog with first stitch from previous section

Continue rows 1 and 2 until you run out of stitches (or k3tog, like before). Cut yarn and fasten off.

Here's a picture of section 3 halfway done so you can see how it works.



Here's the finished strip 1 and 2 together, showing how they fit together.

Getting started: the basics and strip 1

At this point it would be good to explain how this sweater works in a little more detail. Like I said in my first post, this sweater is knit in diagonal stripes which are put together later. In the original, it looks to me like there are two ridges of garter stitch between each strip. My plan for joining is to pick up stitches along the edge of both stripes, work one garter ridge and then do a three needle bind off. I'm not sure if this will work yet so I'll have to get back to you on that.

Each strip is made of alternating sections (parallelograms, in fact) of horizontal and vertical garter stitch. That means that for the first section in strip #1 (first strip in the lower left corner) I will be working a horizontal section starting at the bottom and at the end of the section I will leave the stitches live on the needle. For the section above it, I will be working vertical by casting on some stitches and working side to side, joining with the section below it as I go. This is similar to an edging which is knitted on to a shawl. For section three, it will be horizontal again, so since I am working on to the edge of the section below I will pick up stitches along that edge and knit upwards again.

I need to have some shaping to make this sweater shaped rather than an infinitely large piece of fabric. This means that some of my parallelograms will actually have flat sides rather than a diagonal side. To do this, simply skip the increase or decrease on that side. Continue on the other side, so that you have a piece which is diagonal on one end and flat on the other.

One more note, I like to knit my last stitch of every row through the back loop and slip the first stitch of every row purlwise. This gives me a nice edge to pick up later.

Here is exactly what I did for my first section:

Strip 1, Section 1:

Cast on 33 stitches.
Row 1 (WS): knit across
Row 2 (RS): slip first stitch purlwise, knit to last three stitches, k2tog, knit last stitch through back loop
Row 3 (WS): slip first stitch purlwise, knit to last stitch, knit last stitch through back loop

Continue rows 2 and 3 until you have worked 18 rows or 9 ridges, ending after working a WS row. Do not bind off, leave those stitches on the needle to join up with the next section and cut yarn.


Strip 1, section 2:

Cast on 10 stitches.
Row 1 (WS): knit across
Row 2 (RS): slip first stitch purlwise, knit 8 stitches, k2tog with 10th stitch and 1st stitch from previous section.
Row 3 (WS): Turn and knit back across the 9 stitches, knit last stitch through the back loop

Continue rows 2 and 3 for three inches, about 14 ridges, or until you have 10 stitches remaining on your previous section. From here on you will be working a decrease in section 2 for every row that you join a stitch from section 1. This way you will run out of stitches at the same time.

Begin decreases to shape end:
Row 1 (RS): slip first stitch purlwise, k2tog, knit until last stitch in section, k2tog with last stitch and 1st stitch from previous section.
Row 2 (WS): Turn and knit back across, knit last stitch through the back loop

Continue rows 1 and 2 until you run out of stitches. Personally, I stop when there are three stitches left and k3tog because I don't like the little tab sticking out. This gets sewn up later so it doesn't really matter. Experiment to see what you like. Cut yarn and fasten off.

Strip 1, section 3:

Before I start this section, take a look at my chart. Notice how there are four sections in this strip, but the last section is only an inch wide and an inch tall? I decided not to make that a separate section, but to just continue section 3 up that little extra bit. I thought it would make it less bulky. You can do that section separately if you like.

Pick up stitches 14 stitches along the top edge of the previous section.
Row 1 (WS): knit across
Row 2 (RS): slip first stitch purlwise, knit to last three stitches, k2tog, knit last stitch through back loop
Row 3 (WS): slip first stitch purlwise, knit to last stitch, knit last stitch through back loop

Continue rows 2 and 3 until you run out of stitches (or decide it is close enough and k3tog). Cut yarn and fasten off.

Congratulations, strip 1 is now complete! It should look like the triangle here. The start of strip 2 is also shown:

Preparation: calculations

This is the last part before getting started, I promise!

You need to decide just a few more things. First, what kind of increases and decreases do you want to use? You will use these to shape your horizontal and vertical sections within each diagonal strip. I chose to knit two together (k2tog) for my decrease and knit into the front and back of a stitch (kfb or kf&b) to increase. I like this increase because it doesn't leave a hole like a yarn over does, and in garter stitch it is practically invisible. I experimented with both ssk and k2tog and decided that in this project I could not tell the difference, and k2tog is easier for me.

Next, do basic calculations with your gauge and the size of your horizontal and vertical sections.

example:

A horizontal section (bottom to top) is 7 inches wide and 2 inches high. 4.75 x 7 = 33.25 stitches across, round down to 33 stitches. 9 x 2 = 18 rows (9 ridges) high.

A vertical section(side to side) is also 7 inches wide and 2 inches high. 4.75 x 2 = 9.5 stitches high (across), round up to 10 stitches. 9 x 7 = 63 rows, or 31.5 ridges. I wanted my sections to line up so I rounded that up to 33 ridges. That way I can pick up one stitch per ridge for my next (horizontal) section.

Remember these numbers because you will be using them throughout your sweater front.

Preparation: chart

Before you start knitting, you should make yourself a chart to guide you as you work. Here's how.

Step 1: Start with a piece of graph paper and draw out the shape of the front of your sweater. You can use any plain pattern to help with this. I like a book "The knitter's handy book of sweater patterns" for this, but you can also do it based off of your body measurements. For example, I am short and have a large bust. I decided not to do any waist shaping to simplify things, so my sweater front is 21" wide (42" around total) and from hem to underarm is 13". I will pick up around the bottom and add some ribbing to lengthen it later.

Here is what your basic sweater shape should look like. I used one square per inch to help me later.



Step 2: Decide how wide your diagonal lines will be. Pick something that divides evenly into your sweater width. I chose to try to match the original, so I started with 7" strips. That means I have three starting along the bottom of my sweater. I marked them like this. You may notice that the diagonal doesn't quite match up with the neckline. I will deal with that later, I haven't decided how. That part will probably be ribbing.



I like to label these diagonal strips, although I forgot to do it in the picture. My chart has six diagonal stripes, so starting at the lower left corner that is Strip 1, then strip 2 above it, then 3, 4, 5 and finally 6 is at the upper right shoulder.


Step 3: Decide how tall you want your vertical sections within the diagonals to be. I looked at the original and decided it looked like about 2" so that is what I chose for my own sweater. Mark them on your graph like this



Step 4: Mark each section with the direction as a reference for later. The original sweater has alternating sections. Some sections go side to side and some go top to bottom. It looks great with a gradual color changing yarn. You can skip this if you want and do the entire diagonal section with the same (I would probably choose top to bottom). In that case you can skip step 3 above too. Anyway, here's how to do step 4



That is your finished chart. You will use this chart to tell you how to make your diagonal sections.

Preparation: Yarn choice and gauge

First, yarn: I am using Reynolds Santana, which is a cotton/acrylic blend. The key about this yarn is the gradual color changes. You could do this with a self striping yarn too, and I think even a variegated yarn would look good in this pattern. You can do a solid too, if you want. I might do two solid colors so the sections are more obvious but it would be a pretty, subtle design all in one color. My yarn is a little thin but is working up to an aran weight. I think an aran or worsted would be good for this, in fact Mochi Plus would probably look great! The smaller version for my son will probably be done with Mini Mochi which is a fingering weight.

I am using US 6 needles for a gauge (in garter stitch!) of 4.75 stitches/inch and 9 rows (4.5 ridges) per inch.

Diaper contest!

I just entered a cool contest to win a free cloth diaper! Adrian is 7 months old now and we're still using disposables but I am really ready to switch. I hate always worrying about running out during the week and spending a lot of money on them every week as well. I ordered a few different covers and 4 dozen prefolds on Monday (well, Tuesday too, it was two different orders) and I'm looking forward to trying them. This contest is for a Gro Baby diaper and I hope I win because I would love to try one of those!

ETA: here's the link! http://www.clothdiaperblog.com/feed-your-stash-friday-gro-baby-giveaway/

Gardening update

We've been planning on doing some gardening work ever since we moved in and while we have done some stuff like sweeping, pulling sticks and rocks and trash etc out of the beds, we just haven't gotten around to planting anything in there.. until today that is! We started with nearly empty beds. One bed has a lovely rosebush in it which has already had one flower this year and has several more buds, and the other bed had a reasonably good sized tree, at least good sized for our little garden. It has some gorgeous purple flowers starting in the spring and going well into the fall. It was flowering the first time that we saw this place back last April and it was one of the big reasons that I fell in love with the house. Anyway, this lovely tree makes our back yard pretty shady so we just haven't been sure what to do with it. Today we went to Home Depot and picked out some various plants and flowers which were labeled as doing well in partial sun/shade. The result:

Here is the smaller of the two beds before planting, including my beloved rosebush:




Then we added these:



And got this:





We had leftover plants so we decided to do the other side even though we had planned to wait until later. Sorry, no before picture here. Bed on the side with the tree:




My particular favorites:

Cala lily!


And this bush that we got, I don't remember the name (I will have to look up the tag) but it has these long trailing springs of white flowers. It is supposed to get pretty big but I am hoping we can just keep it trimmed and it will be ok:



I also really like the small leafy plants that we stuck in here and there. The leaves are green and red and really cute.